It is almost three days since I last made an entry onto this account, a period that has
included the Christmas festival, but there has been no festivity. In this short period we experienced an existence of variety and fear to last a lifetime.
On Christmas morning we rose at about 6.30 and made our way to the cafe. Here John and Dorothy decided to go with a truck driver who was on his way to Tehran for $25. We discovered that there were two other truck drivers prepared to take the rest of us at the same price but we were unable to get a rebate from the bus company because it was cold, so reluctantly we said to goodbye to John and Dorothy and prepared to wait another day for the arrival of the bus. When we discovered that Mick and Steve had got a lift with the Pakistani, ( a group who bought cars in Germany and sold them at a tremendous profit in Iran) we realised that we would be the last to go. The information point decided o at Tehran was the student’s bureau so provided we could eventually get through we would be able to meet everyone again.
But fate appeared to be on our side. The bus office opened at 8.00 and John and Dorothy were still waiting to go. One of the trucks had already left but after a great deal of persuasion the two remaining drivers agreed to take three each at cost of $40 per three. So finally we set off at about nine and soon found that the roads were quite clear, even to the extent of removing the wheel chains which turned out to be the first of our vital delays. A few miles further the snow on the road thickened once more until it was obvious that the chains would have to go back on. Again a long delay followed by lunch during which we bought a bottle of banana brandy costing on;y 10TL. Again we made good progress until we met the mountain pass linking Turkey and Iran. A car suddenly stalled in front of us forcing is to stop. stick and dig in until we were embedded in the snow with the rear end off the road. Meanwhile the car had gained its grip and was crawling up the pass but high above us on the Western climb we could see further vehicles unable to move. They looked like match-box toys in the distance and later we discovered that two 8-ton trucks had slid off the road at the top of the pass. This was about 15.00 and very soon there was a row of vehicles behind us which included a bus.
The bus was the first to crawl past us and go up the hill followed by the second truck carrying Chris, Mick and Mike. After trying to pull us out, an attempt which resulted in nearly tipping the other truck and moving about an inch forward and about another six inches downwards. After this episode one driver said our driver said that he was going to telephone and sending Mick back to sit with us they crawled back up the hill. So there we sat with evening drawing in on Christmas day, shivering and watching the slow progress high above us.
It took nearly six hours for the convoy to move at all and at about 09.00 the driver returned hitching a lift on another truck. Now there was no room in the cab and when the driver said that one had to get out I got off with Mick. Another vain attempt to get moving then the driver came out and stopped a car sending Mick up the pass to join the Lorry wherever it was. Later we heard that it had been in a hostel type of place where the three stayed the night eating and drinking in quite comfortable although somewhat primitive surroundings.
For an hour the four of us sat in the cab trying vainly to sleep. The driver finally gave up, saw a lorry approaching down the hill, rushed out and jumped in, driving on down the hill, obviously back to the town we had stopped in a few hours before.
This left just the three of us and until three in the morning we sat watching the lights on the top of the hill slowly disappearing one by one as the trouble spot had been cleared. We git colder and colder, attempted to eat bread spread with paste. Humour grew more an more strained. We all had head aches due to the running engine made necessary to avoid a flat battery. It was impossible to sleep and I dreamt awake seeing large cups of tea.
Then we saw what we thought was a mirage, a snow plough, gigantic in size, moving towards us. But it was no mirage. It was really coming and straight for us. I pressed the horn panic stricken and flashed the light that would not work due to the battery not charging and signed with relief when at the last possible moment it veered to the right of us.
A small truck was following which drew up beside us and out stood a rather peculiar man who we presumed wanted us to move the lorry out of the way. We eventually explained to him that the driver had left us and after deciding that they would serve no purpose by pulling it out with the snow plough he offered to take us out. We were only too pleased. By this time we were in a condition of uncontrollable shivers so loading all our bags on the truck we oiled in and climbed our way up over the pass. It was a fantastic and at times a little frightening climb but eventually we stopped on the other side outside a house. Although we did not know it then it was the beginning of a fascinating sequence.
We were ushered into a room in which there was a large stoked boiler surrounded by bunks in which men slept. We learned later that it was one of the many depots of the clearing gang. They were very similar to municipal workers in England being concerned with keeping the roads between Ezerum and the boarder clear. Here we sat warming ourselves and drinking coffee which we made with the water they boiled for us.
The man who had riven us then got out his board and began the ritual of Muslim prayer before he kipped down for the remainder of the night which was only a couple of hours.
So we had arrived at Boxing day and felt no nearer to Iran than we had two days ago before. At about six they all got up and we started trying to find out when n the next bus would leave for Agri where we hoped we could get another to the boarder. But without further ado we were told to go with them. J&D travelled in a gigantic low loader while I travelled with the man who had pulled us out of the snow.
It was a fascinating experience for it appeared that this man was a lay Rabbi because everywhere he went people rushed to welcome him, shaking his hand and kissing him. Arriving at Agri we again enquired after a bus and again we were told that they were going on to the town where we could get a bus to the boarder. We stopped for a meal leaving the restaurant at about five to twelve and rushing ahead of the low loader which could only travel at about 25mph. The Rabbi got out of the truck and again went through his ritual.
At about 3.00 we arrived where we were taken into the depot and given tea. They all came to look at us. For me the whole drive had been an experience for when people recognised the Rabbi ae we went through they came rushing to meet him then stood google eyed at this blond man sitting beside him. It was at times quite embarrassing.
In the depot we tried various means of communication and the two drivers showed us photographs of themselves. Then we swapped addresses. Finally John photographed the whole community together in the depot and then outside in front of the low loader.
Then we were off finally to ____________ where we arrived at 3.00 at the depot and discovered that the representative of a local hotel was already there saying that there was no further buses to the boarder until 6.00 in the morning. Although a little disappointed that we could go no further we booked at the hotel for 10TL. What we found was much to be desired. No running water, either hot or cold, and beds with badly washed sheets. After a quick look around the town which portrayed a dirty little place, we returned to the hotel and raided the food bag for a meal then concluded the evening playing 35s. Despite the lack of sleep and experiences of the last two days we still managed to keep fairly high spirits. (27th December 1968.)
There seemed to be another bad day to follow to pay us back for the comparative good luck we had had the day before. The night porter had said that he would wake us at 5.30 to give us time to get the bus. John kicked him awake at 5.45. Then the hurried dressing was unnecessary for we discovered that the bus did leave until 7.30 so we carried our cases to the coach office having seen enough of the hotel to last a life time.
Finally we mounted to find that the driver and ‘conductor’ had decided that there were not enough passengers so we spent another hour touring the town trying to persuade them to come along.
It was not, therefore, until 09.00 that we reached the boarder in the old coach with nearly every window cracked, seats buckled and freezing cold with no heater.
A quick check out and then into Iran after 11 days in Turkey.
But here agin our luck was in. We had had our fair share of ill luck so now we were hoping that the good luck would hold. At the boarder we were supposed to meet C&M who had had to stay there the night due to the long customs check on the customs sealed truck, Mick and Steve were also there waiting for visas. The check through was quick and we found a transit waiting outside shceduled for Trabriz. We also discovered that it was possible to book through to Tehran, obtaining our tickets at Makoo, arriving there at 5.00 the next morning. The others decided to leave their truck and so at 11.30 we set off together once again (clocks had moved forward one and a half hours over the boarder meaning that we were two and a half hours ahead of Greenwich meantime). [Cost to Tehran 400Rials]
The journey to Trabiz was uneventful but leaving Trabriz a7 07.00 the jinx suddenly seemed to still be with us.
About 50 km out, again travelling over mountains bordering the flat lands beyond we were delayed for well over an hour due to the road being blocked by an accident. When we did finally get away we encountered icy roads and thick snow in patches. We could picture the coach getting stuck a sit crawled over but as suddenly as we entered we sped to lower ground and better roads. I drifted off to sleep waking short before we arrived in Tehran.
Observation
So the Turks we left behind had been a race of very mixed personality. When you get to know them the majority of them are kind heated and friendly yet at the same time they are always ready to con you. This little characteristics is mainly due to the poverty in which the greater part of the population live. In the mountains poverty is acute. Huts surrounding a small mosk with a small minaret dominate the villages and in this can be seen the great significance coupled with seeing the peoples’ devotion and attachment to the Muslim faith. They may appear very ignorant in their blind obedience yet in Allah they have their reason for living that is lacking in more affluent societies