Stephen Rea: My Blog

29th December 1968, Sunday Iran, leaving Tehran

admin — Mon, 04 Apr 2011 09:27:52 +0000

The day before we had discovered a Catholic Church obviously built for the benefit of the embassies standing nearby so at 7.30 we went by cab to mass and it was enjoyable, the mass in Latin and the gospel and sermon in English. For me it was a reminder of the promises of prayers for those at home but I am hopelessly lost in doubt at the present time to really pray. Perhaps one day soon I will find the real answer to these doubts.
At one we were on our way, a long run through the mountains falling into the salt desert. MC was obviously ill, complaining of a pain in his back which steadily grew worse as the day turned into night.

[Tehran to Zaadin 500 Rials. 1.00 Sunday; arriving 1200 midnight Monday 36 hours.]

Saturday 28th December 1968: Tehran, Iran

admin — Mon, 04 Apr 2011 09:26:22 +0000

It was 07.00 in the morning when we arrived and while two stayed in a cafe the rest of us looked for a cheap hotel that was reasonably comfortable although I did have to make do with a cold shower.
    It was very necessary to do so because in Ezerum I managed to pick up a bed bug which ever since had been having a real feast on my blood. Luckily the itching had not been permitted to develop too badly because of the cold weather we had passed through. Dorothy (who had been a nirse) advised me the best way to be rid of it was a shower using dettol and then washing the clothes I had been wearing in the same material. As the facilities for the latter were a little restricted I pit them into a polythene bag.
    So we travelled to Tehran, having lunch in an English styled restaurant, roast chicken that was not really worth the money that we had to pay (130 rials). We saw advertised in one of the papers published in English a hotel that had a bar styled on the lines of an English pub selling Red Barrel. So that evening we all dressed up (I found the suit rather creased but would not be deterred by such trivialities) and out we went. But we were disappointed when we discovered that it was only the local wallop no better then the near beer we had drunk in Istanbul. One pint was sufficient at 35R so we ended the evening in a restaurant paying exorbitant prices for food.
    Deciding that the nest two nights might be a little short of sleep we retired to an early bed.

Observation – Tehran

Tehran is the most Westernised city that we have so far met, sophisticated and representative of the capitol of a prosperous country as the oil has made Persis. On the other hand it is a comparatively new capital and lack historic interest. On the other hand for night life and shopping in the Bazaars etc is of great enjoyment but the on the whole a day and a night and a bit was sufficient.

Friday 27th December 1968: Turkey, battle with the mountain elements

admin — Mon, 04 Apr 2011 09:24:24 +0000

It is almost three days since I last made an entry onto this account, a period that has
included the Christmas festival, but there has been no festivity. In this short period we experienced an existence of variety and fear to last a lifetime.
On Christmas morning we rose at about 6.30 and made our way to the cafe. Here John and Dorothy decided to go with a truck driver who was on his way to Tehran for $25. We discovered that there were two other truck drivers prepared to take the rest of us at the same price but we were unable to get a rebate from the bus company because it was cold, so reluctantly we said to goodbye to John and Dorothy and prepared to wait another day for the arrival of the bus. When we discovered that Mick and Steve had got a lift with the Pakistani, ( a group who bought cars in Germany and sold them at a tremendous profit in Iran) we realised that we would be the last to go. The information point decided o at Tehran was the student’s bureau so provided we could eventually get through we would be able to meet everyone again.

But fate appeared to be on our side. The bus office opened at 8.00 and John and Dorothy were still waiting to go. One of the trucks had already left but after a great deal of persuasion the two remaining drivers agreed to take three each at cost of $40 per three. So finally we set off at about nine and soon found that the roads were quite clear, even to the extent of removing the wheel chains which turned out to be the first of our vital delays. A few miles further the snow on the road thickened once more until it was obvious that the chains would have to go back on. Again a long delay followed by lunch during which we bought a bottle of banana brandy costing on;y 10TL. Again we made good progress until we met the mountain pass linking Turkey and Iran. A car suddenly stalled in front of us forcing is to stop. stick and dig in until we were embedded in the snow with the rear end off the road. Meanwhile the car had gained its grip and was crawling up the pass but high above us on the Western climb we could see further vehicles unable to move. They looked like match-box toys in the distance and later we discovered that two 8-ton trucks had slid off the road at the top of the pass. This was about 15.00 and very soon there was a row of vehicles behind us which included a bus.

The bus was the first to crawl past us and go up the hill followed by the second truck carrying Chris, Mick and Mike. After trying to pull us out, an attempt which resulted in nearly tipping the other truck and moving about an inch forward and about another six inches downwards. After this episode one driver said our driver said that he was going to telephone and sending Mick back to sit with us they crawled back up the hill. So there we sat with evening drawing in on Christmas day, shivering and watching the slow progress high above us.

It took nearly six hours for the convoy to move at all and at about 09.00 the driver returned hitching a lift on another truck. Now there was no room in the cab and when the driver said that one had to get out I got off with Mick. Another vain attempt to get moving then the driver came out and stopped a car sending Mick up the pass to join the Lorry wherever it was. Later we heard that it had been in a hostel type of place where the three stayed the night eating and drinking in quite comfortable although somewhat primitive surroundings.

For an hour the four of us sat in the cab trying vainly to sleep. The driver finally gave up, saw a lorry approaching down the hill, rushed out and jumped in, driving on down the hill, obviously back to the town we had stopped in a few hours before.

This left just the three of us and until three in the morning we sat watching the lights on the top of the hill slowly disappearing one by one as the trouble spot had been cleared. We git colder and colder, attempted to eat bread spread with paste. Humour grew more an more strained. We all had head aches due to the running engine made necessary to avoid a flat battery. It was impossible to sleep and I dreamt awake seeing large cups of tea.

Then we saw what we thought was a mirage, a snow plough, gigantic in size, moving towards us. But it was no mirage. It was really coming and straight for us. I pressed the horn panic stricken and flashed the light that would not work due to the battery not charging and signed with relief when at the last possible moment it veered to the right of us.

    A small truck was following which drew up beside us and out stood a rather peculiar man who we presumed wanted us to move the lorry out of the way. We eventually explained to him that the driver had left us and after deciding that they would serve no purpose by pulling it out with the snow plough he offered to take us out. We were only too pleased. By this time we were in a condition of uncontrollable shivers so loading all our bags on the truck we oiled in and climbed our way up over the pass. It was a fantastic and at times a little frightening climb but eventually we stopped on the other side outside a house. Although we did not know it then it was the beginning of a fascinating sequence.
    We were ushered into a room in which there was a large stoked boiler surrounded by bunks in which men slept. We learned later that it was one of the many depots of the clearing gang. They were very similar to municipal workers in England being concerned with keeping the roads between Ezerum and the boarder clear. Here we sat warming ourselves and drinking coffee which we made with the water they boiled for us.
    The man who had riven us then got out his board and began the ritual of Muslim prayer before he kipped down for the remainder of the night which was only a couple of hours.
    So we had arrived at Boxing day and felt no nearer to Iran than we had two days ago before. At about six they all got up and we started trying to find out when n the next bus would leave for Agri where we hoped we could get another to the boarder. But without further ado we were told to go with them. J&D travelled in a gigantic low loader while I travelled with the man who had pulled us out of the snow.
    It was a fascinating experience for it appeared that this man was a lay Rabbi because everywhere he went people rushed to welcome him, shaking his hand and kissing him. Arriving at Agri we again enquired after a bus and again we were told that they were going on to the town where we could get a bus to the boarder. We stopped for a meal leaving the restaurant at about five to twelve and rushing ahead of the low loader which could only travel at about 25mph. The Rabbi got out of the truck and again went through his ritual.
    At about 3.00 we arrived where we were taken into the depot and given tea. They all came to look at us. For me the whole drive had been an experience for when people recognised the Rabbi ae we went through they came rushing to meet him then stood google eyed at this blond man sitting beside him. It was at times quite embarrassing.
    In the depot we tried various means of communication and the two drivers showed us photographs of themselves. Then we swapped addresses. Finally John photographed the whole community together in the depot and then outside in front of the low loader.
    Then we were off finally to ____________ where we arrived at 3.00 at the depot and discovered that the representative of a local hotel was already there saying that there was no further buses to the boarder until 6.00 in the morning. Although a little disappointed that we could go no further we booked at the hotel for 10TL. What we found was much to be desired. No running water, either hot or cold, and beds with badly washed sheets. After a quick look around the town which portrayed a dirty little place, we returned to the hotel and raided the food bag for a meal then concluded the evening playing 35s. Despite the lack of sleep and experiences of the last two days we still managed to keep fairly high spirits. (27th December 1968.)
    There seemed to be another bad day to follow to pay us back for the comparative good luck we had had the day before. The night porter had said that he would wake us at 5.30 to give us time to get the bus. John kicked him awake at 5.45. Then the hurried dressing was unnecessary for we discovered that the bus did leave until 7.30 so we carried our cases to the coach office having seen enough of the hotel to last a life time.
    Finally we mounted to find that the driver and ‘conductor’ had decided that there were not enough passengers so we spent another hour touring the town trying to persuade them to come along.
    It was not, therefore, until 09.00 that we reached the boarder in the old coach with nearly every window cracked, seats buckled and freezing cold with no heater.
    A quick check out and then into Iran after 11 days in Turkey.
    But here agin our luck was in. We had had our fair share of ill luck so now we were hoping that the good luck would hold. At the boarder we were supposed to meet C&M who had had to stay there the night due to the long customs check on the customs sealed truck, Mick and Steve were also there waiting for visas. The check through was quick and we found a transit waiting outside shceduled for Trabriz. We also discovered that it was possible to book through to Tehran, obtaining our tickets at Makoo, arriving there at 5.00 the next morning. The others decided to leave their truck and so at 11.30 we set off together once again (clocks had moved forward one and a half hours over the boarder meaning that we were two and a half hours ahead of Greenwich meantime). [Cost to Tehran 400Rials]
    The journey to Trabiz was uneventful but leaving Trabriz a7 07.00 the jinx suddenly seemed to still be with us.
    About 50 km out, again travelling over mountains bordering the flat lands beyond we were delayed for well over an hour due to the road being blocked by an accident. When we did finally get away we encountered icy roads and thick snow in patches. We could picture the coach getting stuck a sit crawled over but as suddenly as we entered we sped to lower ground and better roads. I drifted off to sleep waking short before we arrived in Tehran.

Observation
So the Turks we left behind had been a race of very mixed personality. When you get to know them the majority of them are kind heated and friendly yet at the same time they are always ready to con you. This little characteristics is mainly due to the poverty in which the greater part of the population live. In the mountains poverty is acute. Huts surrounding a small mosk with a small minaret dominate the villages and in this can be seen the great significance coupled with seeing the peoples’ devotion and attachment to the Muslim faith. They may appear very ignorant in their blind obedience yet in Allah they have their reason for living that is lacking in more affluent societies

Tuesday 24th December 1968 : Looking for a lift out of Turkey

admin — Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:42:55 +0000

Rose early and was distraught to see that the snow was falling thick and fast outside but not to be put off we set about preparing a true English breakfast. Mike came up just as Mick and I were getting up and while the pair of them boiled water I set off in the blinding snow to get bread. Even in this it was interesting to note a certain amount of pride influencing. I wanted to turn back because the snow was too much yet the feeling of satisfaction that I could sense by bringing back this bread spurred me on and eventually I found a bakery and purchased two loaves
    Dorothy, John and Chris joined us and we had a good breakfast of boiled eggs and bread followed by bread and jam with coffee.
    Following this we again joined up with those we had met previously while John, Dorothy and Chris went to the TTA. Here I leaned that Steve (American) was a writer having sold both poetry and short stories in America. This was of immense interest to me and I was determined to seek his advise associated to my own interest.
    When the others returned and we learnt that the TTA was shut we decided to book on the coach to Tehran at the cost of 129TL then kicked around for the rest the day. We leaned later that the bus was blocked at Sevos in the mountains and could not be expected until Thursday. After much consultation including truck drivers we decided to wait.
    The day passed to the afternoon and then to the evening when we decided to have a Christmas Eve party buying a bottle of vodka (250TL) and a bottle of wine (8TL). Here Steve read some of the poetry that I had written on the trip and what he suggested was most encouraging. He said that I a talent that needed maturity but said that by the time I was 25 I could be writing really well. He even suggested that I attempt a graduateship in poetry in America but whatever I decided I must read and write continually to develop the potential that was there.
    Steve retired early but Mike (an interesting character with one eye whom Steve is travelling with making a study of the things that he does. His theory is that because of the one eye Mick has become very singular person in his actions and ideas) began to make us thinks why we had come on this trip at all. As I listened to other opinions I felt that it is all an attempt to find something. Something that may very well be on our own doorstep but until we have travelled and looked around are unable to see. To my mind I am doing all this with a very open mind. I am perfectly content with the idea of settling down again in England satisfied that I have seen the rest of then world. Seen how the other side are and am happy with my own station in life.
    Meanwhile Ezerum is very cold but at bout 11.00 the snow has stopped and it is looking brighter. Tomorrow we can hope for greater possibilities although we have not seen Christmas here. It is many years sense I have felt this but here in the Muslim regions it is difficult to have any sense of the feeling of Christmas whatsoever.

Monday 23rd December 1968: Ezerum, Turkey

admin — Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:40:52 +0000

Awaking at about 07.00 the train was travelling slowly through the most picturesque scenery that we had so far encountered. We were following the course of a river ponderously winding our way through shear gorges carved out of the rocks. But despite the beauty it was barren and the small villages were still poor and simple yet perhaps in their simplicity they had much more than us, a faith in Allah they see more perhaps to live for that we for all our prosperity have.

The weather is a great deal colder and with the snow on the hill tops and the climb ahead into Ezerum already in the morning we were imagining the snow that may lay there.

During the night the small modern Diesel loco had disappeared. In its place was a steam train. The pace of the train had dropped considerably but not to be biased against sentimental lovers of the ‘golden age of steam’ it is obviously due to the mountainous winding region over which we are at present passing.

Almost Christmas although hardly feeling like it. A few carols would go down very well at the moment but hardly a chance of that. One can compare the wilderness with the mad shopping scenes that are taking place back in England. Grabbing and shoving with no feeling for the true spirit of Christmas. Ideal place really to contemplate the mystic course of Christmas but the frame of mind is too important.

As we climbed through the mountain villages it was soon apparent that we would be late into Ezerum. Every little village was a stopping place and to them it was one of the events of the day. Nearly the whole village gathered around trying to sell anything that had to the passengers, bread water etc. The children were the chief barterers and it was obvious that they did not attend school. I suppose they consider it enough to learn what their fathers have done before them and continue in his footsteps. It will be a few years yet before transport into these parts will enable these people to have the same facilities as those who live in the larger towns.

At 01.00 we were still grinding our way through the hills at a snails pace passing the small villages that stood with building, grouped hovels around a Mosk always the best building in the village with one small minaret rising above the buildings.Now and again we fell into a fertile valley where the standard of building was a little better but o the whole is is an existence of struggle against poverty. At the stations small boys shout for papers because up here they hear no news, they know nothing about the outside world.

As we climbed further into the hills with the time already approaching 02.30 the snow began to get deeper and the water more frozen. The scene became more desolate giving a feeling of a vast void of dereliction.

The two hippies on their way to India called into the compartment and asked us if we knew how we were going to get to India from Ezerum saying that they had a list they would give us when we eventually arrived in Ezerum. We have already seen them sponging in the restaurant car and we wonder if this is their approach to do the same thing with us.

At one point we stopped right out in the middle of nowhere to drop off provisions. We coulds still see a village set high up on the mountainside and it is of course the only contact that they really have with the rest of civilization.

It was also of interest to note the railway system. Single line with no signals but at various points they have waiting loop lines for by-passing where I presume the first train just waits for the others to pass. A good cheap system but only workable where trains are very few and far between.

As we neared the Russian boarder travelling in a north Easterly direction army lamps become more and more in evidence. The buildings were a little more sophisticated and at one camp football posts protruded from the snow. But the scenery around the camps were as bleak and barren as any we had passed on the first day out of Istanbul.

diagram of route from diary

At last we arrived at Ezerum at 05.00 five hours late and in the bitter cold we struggled with our luggage to a hotel that looked decent without costing too much. We also found to our surprise that the Tourist Bureau was still open, a shabby establishment in both appearance and service. We discovered that a bus would leave for the boarder at 06.00 in the morning but it appeared that we would have to wait here for a through bus to Trabriz in Iran where we would be able to get a train to Tehran. But we were able to ascertain that on Wednesdays there would be a bus going straight through to from Ezerum to Tehran and weighing everything up this would work out cheaper bearing in mind that we may have to stop over either at the boarder or Trabriz waiting for connections. We would also be able to visit the student Tourist Bureau to whom we carried a letter from the Devil.

At the bureau we met up with another bunch made up of two Americans (I was late to realise the one was a Canadian and not American as I originally thought) and two Persians who were on their way to Australia. They booked into the same hotel and agreed with their plans and later we had dinner together in one of the cleanest and cheapest hotels that we had encountered since arriving in Turkey. It gave us a new feeling of confidence to meet others who were on the same route.

That evening we had coffee cooked in our room on the stove together with Christmas cake which Dorothy’s mother had given to them before they left. We had bought eggs for breakfast so with this in mind for the next day we turned to bed.

Sunday 22nd December 1968: Train from Istanbul

admin — Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:27:44 +0000

Washing in the small basin in the toilette was a difficult insufficient job but we all felt a lot better for it.

The country we passed was at first flat and barren, no more than a wilderness but as we hit higher ground it became more picturesque with the babbling brooks and hills with mountain backgrounds topped with snow.

But even here when we saw the hovels and the condition in which people lived the poverty of the people was only too apparent.

Small children run up to the train wave and tap it. We offered some of them sweets but it was obvious that they had never seen any before and threw them back at the train.

In the restaurant car we met two ‘hippies’ on their way to India but we did not ask them how they intended to cross the Turkish boarder. This is our immediate worry for we must rely on information received at Turkey as there being transport from Ezerum to Tabriz where we can pick up a train to Tehran. It is a strange fact that as the day turns to darkness our fears always increase and small problems become blown out of all proportion.

In the evening I decided to have a meal with the rest in the restaurant car which consisted of grass soup and brad, beef and spaghetti followed by an orange. We were beginning to get a little sick of the sight of oranges. We were stocked up before we got on the train and have been eating them ever since.

Returning to the compartment we made up the couchettes stacking all the cases etc in the centre.

Saturday 21st December 1968: Leaving Istanbul and the coach

admin — Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:26:07 +0000

Rising at about 10.00 we packed our things together and then proceeding down to have a cup of tea and arrange the final preparations. Down in the lounge we met Paul and David who were obviously sober and in a better frame of mind. They explained that after we had left the coach they would no longer be responsible. They then gave us their opinion of the difficulties that we would meet which sounded a little over-difficult to what we had been told on goof authority. But they were responsible enough and told us the last place that we would be able to rejoin the party. That would be one in the eye for them so I doubt if we will allow ourselves to ever be forced into such a reversal of circumstances. The only outstanding grumble is the fact that we have been forced to leave various articles on the coach. But we have ensured that these articles will not fall into the hands of Paul or David by giving a note of ownership to another member of the party who is continuing forward in the coach.

So now we have pulled up roots from a disorganised trip to India and attempt to make it on our own. We can only hope that we meet this time with success.

At 06.00 (18.00) the taxis arrived and with a good send off from other members of the coach we proceeded to the ferry. Fred had finally decided to return home after changing his mind twice. I think that for his sake it is probably for the best.

Before we had left Chris introduced us to a man whom he had befriended. He was apparently employed by the Turkish government to look after Tourists, a type of protection against con-men. This an spoke English and it was apparent that he was very well known in Istanbul as the Devil. He obtained student passes for us all which should enable us up to 60% on a great deal of goods especially on transport. As we had left it so late we could only obtain 10% as a rebate on the tickets we had already bought but that amounted to 10TL. He also gave us a letter for his counterpart in Azera who would make sure that we found the bus etc we needed to cross the Iranian boarder to the next point for boarding a train. He also promised to write ahead to Delhi so that we could receive assistance there.

We crossed the Bosporus on the ferry assisted by a porter who carried five cases on his back with the aid of a single piece of rope. On the ferry he laid on tea and then bore us to the train. There he left us but not without trouble. He demanded $10 for his services but after a long haggle he finally settled for 20TL which was what he was really worth with the inclusive cost of the ferry and train.

Now we were at the station all standing beside the train not knowing if it was the right one or not . After playing about with some locals it was decided to go and ask at the booking offices and eventually it was discovered that the couchette numbers in the train did not go as high as high as the ones that we had booked but after a little rearrangement we found the compartment that was to be the home for six of us for the next two days. It was like an English compartment train but when the seats and the racks were rearranged it turned into a compartment with six bunks.

A crowd from the party arrived at the station then to see us off and it was even then a little emotional despite then fact that we had all known each other for such a little time. Waving farewells we slid out of the station and at last we were on the move again.

After about an hour we decided to cook up some soup but just when had got the stove going at a cracking rate the ticket collector decided to come in. A really comical scene followed as we all tried to cover it up with Dorothy sitting holding the saucepan steady. We managed to get the tickets to him but the he wanted to see the student cards. As we finally managed to get rid of him without apparent discovery we proceeded to drink the soup and between us we consumed a loaf of bread.

The night was spent sleeping quite well on the hard couchettes but there were many interruptions from officials and others trying to find empty bunks.

Friday 20th December 1968: Istanbul

admin — Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:24:00 +0000

I’ve seen all that I want to see in Istanbul. I’ve seen its poverty an the desperate strife to scratch out an existence where everyone is forced to do the same.

John visited the Iranian embassy in the morning and gave us some interesting news. With advise from the consul he learned that the trip to Delhi could be made for about £30 by train with food included. This would in fact be less than the cost of going on in the coach for food and hotels alone. And worth all the trouble that we have already experienced it’s a good bet.

Paul and David returned from their visit to the garage and informed us that with the weekend holiday the stripping down etc could not be completed until Tuesday at the earliest. By the way that the engine has been pulling ever since we left England unless he gets a new one none of us can have the confidence of ever getting there at all. If he decided on a reconditioned engine it will have to be sent out from England which could mean weeks waiting here in Istanbul and the chance that we will never have the money to get to Australia.

John seems to be doing the leading and it is a question of taking the chance and joining him or listening to more of the Beusley soft soaping and possibly ending up stranded somewhere en-route.

We have decided to leave and have booked up our tickets to the Turkish boarder.

Waiting for the opportunity that evening we tackled firstly David who obviously gave the impression that he could not care less and then Paul, after a long argument had finished with David. Trying to explain to Paul that we understood the fact that he had done his best in the circumstances although they could have been avoided by starting in a vehicle in better condition but we were not satisfied with the things we had found so contrary to what his agent in London had told us.

Paul got mad at this and I lost my temper in which a slanging match ensued which solved nothing but David hearing what was going on came in annoyed that we had got Pal on his own after the argument that we had already had.

Paul decided that it would be better to leave the arguing until the morning when the strain of the day was over. Chris asked David what chance there was of getting our things out of the coach. This produced an unfortunate incident. David turned on Chris shouting, “I’ve already told you that the coach was locked until Monday.” (This again was annoying as they had told us not to bother with the ‘bits and pieces’ and then had taken the coach the garage without warning.) He threw a punch at him. Luckily Chris stepping back fell over a small table enabling us to get hold of then both before it got worse. We managed t rush them out of the hotel saying the we would speak about the situation in the morning.

I can understand the strain that both Paul and David are under but I cannot understand the attitude that he is doing us all a favour by paying the hotel for two nights. He doesn’t seem to realise that there are people who have budgeted for sleeping on the coach and as the number of days in dry dock increase their situation becomes worse. We feel that we have been conned all along the line but no matter what anyone else feels we will be batter off out of the country, out of the coach and know that we are moving definitely forward.

Thursday 19th December 1968: Istanbul

admin — Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:19:13 +0000

John woke me at 07.00 and I stumbled out of bed and after a quick cup of tea six of us set off to a supermarket to obtain food to restrict meal expenditure for the next week when we expected to be in reasonably warm weather. We had even been told that it was possible to swim in Southern Turkey. At the Bazaar we obtained a prima stove and equipment but due to the lack of selection and high prices we did not get any food but instead obtained fruit and bread just before we were ready to go.

We were unable to obtain visas for Iraq but we were preparing to go South and after many delays we were finally ready to leave at about 02.00. Driving well we made our way to Galipolli to cross Asia but after only about 70 miles disaster struck. We drew to a stop and it was obvious that there was something seriously wrong. Paul and David think that it is probably the Gasket.

We were to go back to Istanbul to the same hotel until the trouble could be finally rectified. Paul did o this occasion agree to foot the hotel bill but dissension is very high in the atmosphere. Many are unsure what to do. I feel fed up and a little unsure. As each days delay goes by the money in hand falls too and the possibility of failure grows. Many of us are talking of making investigations in alternative forms of transport, rail or plane to India. Ax the things are at the moment it looks doubtful if we will even ever arrive in India so we must think of other things before it is too late. While on the other hand we must not be rash in vase they are forced to cancel the whole thing and then if we are still sticking it out we would be in line for compensation.

Si again we pulled op outside the hotel and again we climbed the long curling stairs five stories up and put our things away then to retire once more to the lounge. Again well into the morning drinking Turkish beer which is an imitation, and poor at that, of German beer but the more we drink it the more we seem to get use to it

Wednesday 18th December 1968: Istanbul

admin — Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:17:09 +0000

Our troubles really began.

All up late again but we managed to obtain the Iran Visas quite quickly then moved on to the Iraq embassy across the Golden Horn. Here we ran into deep complications.

There are two routes to take, North or South. We know that North will be freezing and reliable sources tell us that the Northern Khyber is impassable with snow.

The other route is the one originally planned but the Iraq consul advised us that the bridge between Iraq and Iran was down which would mean a diversion through Syria but it is doubtful whether we will get visas due to arms deals to Israel. As the Iraqi embassy won’t grant us visas until we are covered by Syria Paul took all of our passports and went to the Syrian Embassy

Another cup of coffee at the Hilton then back to the hotel to wait. The whole trip was in the balance but everyone still managed to remain fairly high spirited none the less, perhaps still confident that something somehow would be worked out.

hand drawn map of the two routes

I made my meal on bread and fish caught in the sea and immediately cooked on a small boat and served for 1TL. Then we made up the vitamins with fresh Orange juice squeezed out of five oranges while we actually watched.

Paul and David arrived back at about 5.30 confirming that there was no chance of entering Syria by early tomorrow then will attempt to get Iraqi visas so that we can make a start. Everyone feels that the arrangements are unsatisfactory but no one can blame the organisers for a fallen bridge or fact for political situations but weeks of sub-zero trouble does not attract anyone. Once again we could only wait.

That evening David explained to us that no matter what we would leave at about 12.00 the next day heading south. If we were unable to get Iraq visas we would go via south Turkey and Iran.

After being put a little more at ease we settled down for a game of Knapp, John, Dorothy, Mick Keating and two Americans who had arrived for the night. We played until one, the agreed finishing time but eventually did not find our way to bed until 04.30. At 04.00 we were on the hotel roof looking at the sleeping city. It was quite a fascinating sight with the varied lights and colours lit in the mirror of the Golden Horn. The mosks just beyond the hotel were easily seen with the museums etc all there.